From Jerusalem to Jericho

cave marking the birth place of Mary

Pools of Bethesda where Jessa healed

It was the perfect day to remember ones baptism as the rain came down pretty constantly all morning and much of the afternoon.  And yet, like any good pilgrim a little rain was just the chance to remember our baptism, not discourage the journey.  The morning was dedicated to the Via Dolorosa--the way of the cross.  Pilgrims for years have traced Jesus steps as he went from Pilate to Golgotha and was crucified.    We actually began by visiting the church of St. Anne which was built by the crusaders to honor the birth of Mary, mother of our Lord.  Then we went to the pools of Bethesda where Jesus healed the paralytic man.



Stone from Jesus time at the Soldiers
Headquarter.  Notice the graffiti that marks a game they played




Chapel of the Condemnation



The Way of the Cross, through the city.

Kelly at the 7th station of the cross leaning on a pillar that many
think to be part of the old cities gate of Judgment.  Leading
Jesus outside the city walls.

We start at what was the site of Pilate's Antonio fortress.  Built right next to the temple it most have been an impressive site.  Today you can see the original floor, where you even have some graffiti from Roman Soldiers and the walk of the cross begins.  (The actual location is now a school, so you begin in a chapel built a little ways away which is the chapel of the flagellation where Jesus was beaten and then to the Chapel of the Condemnation where Pilate condemned him to die.

You then follow various stations of the cross, some are legendary, some mark points that we hear about in the Gospels (seeing the women along the way).  The walk itself winds its way through the small alleys of the Old City past vendors and merchants of all kinds.  The stations of the cross are either little niches in the alley or sometimes small chapels that you can enter and have a time of prayer.  All along you are heading for the church of the Holy Sepulchre which holds both the place of Crucifixion and burial within its walls.

The 11th station where Jesus is nailed
to the cross (Inside the Church of the
Holy Sepulcher

The place of Crucifixion.  Kelly is reaching her hand through an opening that allows
you to touch the rock of Golgotha, the place where the cross was placed and
where Jesus died.  It is the 12th station.



The dome above the chapel that
marks the tomb of Jesus.




Kelly about to enter the chapel erected over the tomb of  Jesus.

Inside the 'tomb' of Jesus

I took this quickly while in the tomb of Jesus, this is the roof.

Entrance to the chapel of the Sepulcher, where one finds the tomb of
Christ.

Let's stop to ask the question:  Is this really the place that Jesus was crucified and buried?  According to the Oxford Archaeological guide "Quite probably yes."  Helen, the mother of Constantine came to the Holy Land in the 300's AD to find sites that were connected to our Lord's life.  One of the sites she identified was what is currently the Churh of the Holy Sepulcher.  One of the emperors had build a temple on the spot to the goddess Aphrodite in order to squash the Christian use of the site.  He did the same in other places as well--thinking that he was destroying the memory of Christ.  In hindsight, he was a great blessing, because his temples where a great clue as to where the original Christian sites were and it also preserved some of the earliest artifacts.   When Helen came to Jerusalem she was told that the place of the Crucifixion and burial was located at the site of the Aphrodite Temple, so she had it destroyed and indeed found beneath it remnants of the early Christians who had venerated the site as the death and burial place of Jesus.

Many folks don't like the Sepulcher because it has become a big noisy place filled with pushing pilgrims and squabbling religious orders--but it is an amazing place.  I believe that you do indeed knell and touch the rock of Golgotha when there and also that you stand in the place where the women found an empty tomb--Alleluia!  

The place commemorating our
Lord's body being prepared
for burial

Indide the LUtheran Church of the cross.  The ELCA staffs this chuch.
We climed up the bell tower for a great view.  Wiped me out!

Kelly and I were very lucky, we both got to reach our hand down and touch the rock of Golgotha and then when it came time to visit the tomb of Christ, her and I were there together, able to give praise to the risen Lord, but also stand in awe and wonder of all the folks who had raised slavery and death for thousands of years just to stand where we were standing--amazing experience.

Afterwards we went to the Lutheran Church of the cross, which is located right next to the Holy Sepulcher and climbed the tower--winded--for a wonderful view of Jerusalem.

Jericho--Temptation restarunt

Jericho the oldest city on Earth--10,000 BC.  Also the lowest at 1300 feet
below sea level,

The monastery marking the place of Temptation
of Jesus by Satan.   A monastery marks the spot.

The spot marking the telling of Zaeccheaus being too small so climbing the tree to see Jesus.

Here in old Jericho some towers have dated back over 10,000 BC.

Next we traveled the Jericho road--much safer these days, but indeed passed by the monument commemorating Jesus story of the Good Samaritan.  We then descended to the lowest and oldest city in the world--JERICHO!   We looked at some of the ruins, saw the place attributed to be where Jesus was tempted by the devil and a Sycamore tree that marks the beloved story of Zachaeus--and yes we did sing the song...."Zacheaus was a wee little man and a wee little man was he, he climbed up in the sycamore tree for the Lord he wanted to see."

Then it was off to our beautiful 4star imperial hotel. 

Sights and sounds at the Western wall

Temple Mount and Bethlehem

Kelly and I on the Temple Mount, behind us the Dome of the Rock!

Kelly admiring the columns out front.

Here is the Baptistery right next to the Dome of hte Rock.  Take a look at the reflection of the door knob.

We woke up this morning to begin our day on the Temple Mount.  Quick history:  Here is the place that the Jewish temple was built by Solomon, then destroyed and rebuilt, then greatly improved by Herod the Great in Jesus time.   It is the holiest site for the Jewish people.  It is also the place where Abraham took Isaac up to be sacrificed.   The Romans completely destroyed the Temple in 70 AD and it has been gone ever since.  Currently two mosques set on the Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock and the Black mosque.  Theses where built in the the 6th century.    It is a very peaceful place and the Dome of the Rock Mosque is beautiful.   What surprised me was that there is a Crusader period baptistery right next to the Dome of the Rock!  Apparently during one of hte crusades the Temple Mount was taken over by the crusaders and the Mosque turned into a church, later when the crusaders where driven out the baptistery remained used for other purposes.  

Next we traveled through the streets of the old city.  Take a look at the vendors below and imagine all the sights and sounds.



Here are the Merchants in the old city




Can you smell the incense burring.



Here is the famous "wailing" or Western

Prayers are jammed into the little space

Through the old city we came out at the Western or Wailing wall.  The only part of Herod's Temple that is still intact.  It was a very interesting experience to come to the wall and pray.  It was a good place to pray, and it felt good to pray for peace for all the people who share this land.  Take a look at all the prayers that are shoved into the seams of the rocks.  Also there were lots of celebrations of bat and bar mitzvah  here today.

Original stairs cut into bedrock that led up to the Temple
Mount.  Jesus would have taught from this place!

Extending down from the Western wall are the Archaeological gardens.  Here you can see the excavations of the site, including the very street that Jesus would have walked on to come up to the Temple.  We also had a chance to sit on the 'teaching steps' where Jesus would have taught his followers.   The steps are cut into the original bedrock--now over all the years the steps are slick with wear but still very impressive. 

Rubble thrown on the street from the destruction of the Temple in 70 AD 
You can walk on the very stones/street that Jesus must have used.

Church of the Shepherds in the Fields

The small door entrance to
The Church of the Nativity.  Why?
So all will bow who enter?



Near the entrance to the 'grotto' of the birth of Jesus.



Kelly touching the place where Jesus is said to be born.

Oriinal mosaic flloor from 4th century church

The Christmas Tree in Bethlehem square was still up!

After a tour of the "Shrine of the Book" where the Dead Sea Scrolls are housed we headed to Bethlehem.  Lunch and then the Franciscan church of the sthepherds in the fields.  A very peaceful place built to commemorate the angels that sang on Christmas morning.  We sang "O little Town of Bethlehem" here.   Then we were off to the Church of the Nativity.  The traditional place where are Lord was born.   The church has an interesting history, it was the only Christian church not destroyed by the Persians when they arrived.   It seems the mosaic inside showed the magi who were similarly dressed so they kept the church standing.  It was founded by Queen Helen, the Mother of Constantine in the 4th Century.  You can still see the original floor, even though the church has since had many additions and repairs.  

Tomorrow, the way of the cross, Holy Sepulchre and then off on the Jericho road to float on the dead sea!










Our guide telling us about the Garden of Gehtsemane and scripture reading

Jerusalem, Jerusalem....



Your work in the Holy Land!

 As we drove from our hotel in east Jerusalem up to the Mount of Olives I was delightfully surprised that our first stop was the Augusta Victoria Hospital complex run by the Lutheran World Federation.  It is also home of the Church of the Ascension which is one possible site of the Ascension of our Lord (admittedly not probable) but is also built on the highest point in Jerusalem, some 850 meters above sea level.   This is a place that should make Lutherans proud.   They provide needed medical services and treatments to many Palestinians who would otherwise not have care.  In fact our guide told us that you should feel very good about the work of Augusta Victoria Hospital.   I quote "Many people send money to places in the Holy Land and it never does any good.  Every penny that comes to Augusta Victoria goes right to the people."    Nice way to start the trip.  And don't worry Kelly has some brochures and is already thinking of how we can better support this amazing ministry.



Pater Noster Church Mt. of Olives




Kelly looking above Old City on Mt of Olives




Looking out famous window of Dominus Flevit "Our Lord Wept."

 From the Mount of Olives we also went to another church--more probable--that marks site of the Ascension, then we went to the church of the Pater Noster, known for it's many versions of the Lord's Prayer that are displayed and then to the overlook into Jerusalem.   Never mind that there was a camel there for the tourists to ride, smack dab in front of you is the Holy City.  The Dome of the Rock with its beautiful blue color and gold dome, the walls that surround the old city, the tombs of the faithful of three different faiths stretching before you....it is one of those iconic and breathtaking scenes.   We then walked down the Mount of Olives following the route that Jesus would have taken on Palm Sunday.   Along the way we stopped at the famous church of Dominus Flevit (Our Lord Wept) where you have a beautiful view over Jerusalem and built to commemorate Jesus heartfelt concern for the city.  Next we walk to the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus prayed to be 'delivered' from his death if it be the Father's will.  Then into the Church of All Nations which has the traditional spot of where Jesus threw himself down in the Garden to pray while the disciples slept. 

The place where Jesus prayed



Kelly saying a prayer at Gethsemane



Pastor and Kelly outside the Church of All Nations

OK....So can you sense the awe and the sense of everything being surreal?  We have been officially touring for less than 4 hours and we have already seen and experienced so much.  The place where our Lord rode down on the colt for Palm Sunday, the place of his anguishing prayer in the Garden, the Mount of Olives and the good work at Augusta Victoria.   What can one do next, but go have lunch.  Where....Falafels of course.   A nice little restaurant owned by a Palestinian Christian.  Good food.

Lunch Jerusalem style

The Upper Room

Mosaic ceiling where Peter Denied Christ

Reading from Scripture in Caiaphas' house where Jesus was taken after being arrested

Actual steps that Jesus "MAY" have walked down to get to the Garden

Rolling stone from a tomb

What it's all about!

Back to touring, we next went to the Upper Room, where Jesus was supposed to have instituted the sacrament, saw the tomb of David (Which isn't, but some like to think it is), and then went to church built over the house of Caiaphas the high priest.  The location of where Jesus was taken after he was arrested and where Peter denied knowing him three times.   Finally we went to the so called "Garden Tomb" where you get a really good idea of what the real empty tomb of Jesus must have looked like; however the real spot is probably closer to the church of the Holy Sepulcher which we will visit later.  What  first day!!  

OK, some nice things about our guide.  Great Christian Palestinian man who is very glad to tell you if he thinks a site is authentic, pretty close, or note even in the ball park.   He likes to use three criteria for judging whether a site is probably authentic.  Scripture---what do we know from scripture about the site.  Tradition--how long has it been associated with an event and what does history have to tell us.  Archaeology--what can science tell us about the site, over against what we know about the period.   If all three line up, then he assumes that you have to say:  Why not?   If they don't line up, then you probably need to say it is a good place to remember the event, but not the actual location.  I like his system and he is generally right on. 

People:  Very warm and welcoming.  Lots of diversity.   Kelly and I walked out in a very urban area of the Arab part of the city and felt very comfortable.  Everyone kind.  I haven't seen one homeless person or mentally distraught person--and Jerusalem is a big city.   The children are beautiful and always laughing and smiling.  Many of the women have traditional dress...and many don't.   You get the impression that if it weren't for the radical extremists on each side, that all these people would easily live together.   You also come to know a lot of Christian Palestinians who are rarely mentioned in the US and who have a very hard time finding jobs and housing etc... in Israel.  They are discriminated against in many ways.  

That is all for tonight.  Tomorrow:  The Temple Mount, Western Wailing wall, Bethlehem, and more....An amazing place!  

We made it to Jerusalem!

It took 6 hours from LAX to JFK, then 9.5 hours from JFK to Istanbul, Turkey, then 2 hours from Istanbul to Tel Aviv, then waited for the other folks to arrive, then drove the bus 45 minutes into Jerusalem--we are beat tired and getting ready to go to bed.  Having arrived in the city at night, we'll start all our touring tomorrow.   However, I have to say that no matter how 'inconvenient' I might find traveling it is amazing that you can start out at 6:30 in the Morning in Los Angeles and within 24 hours be standing in Jerusalem.

Our hotel is the Ritz (not Ritz Carlton) which is in the Arab part of the city.   Such a delightful hotel with a staff that was there to meet us with juice and smiles.  I couldn't help but take a little adventure so I convinced Kelly to go out for a night time stroll.  We'll we walked the alleys and back streets of Jerusalem until what did we see in front of us?  The wall of the old city and we were standing right under Herod's Gate.  The wall is lit up a night and looks quite spectacular.  We were just too tired to venture in---and it was pretty dark and getting late---but there was something about seeing the wall of the old city that makes it real.  On the way back to the Hotel we stopped in a little spice shop.  Amazing, nothing but spices piled up everywhere, the smells were incredible. 

Keep us in your prayers and we'll be glad to actually be able to post some real pictures tomorrow and fill you in on our adventures.   Peace! pj                                        Here's Herods Gate